Weston Winterlicious* #2 - El Almacen Yerba Mate Cafe
Sopes de Frijoles
When we moved to Weston in 2011, there were few restaurants with table service, and even fewer places to find a decent coffee. The coffee situation has improved greatly. Serving a meal prepared onsite at the table alongside a decent coffee, however, is the exclusive domain of El Almacen Yerba Mate Cafe.
When El Almacen opened on Weston Road just north of Lawrence, I was cautiously optimistic. The espresso maker, the exposed brick wall, the hammered tin ceiling, the Mexican art, the warm lighting from schoolhouse style pendants, the Yerba mate, influenced by the Argentinian roots of the co-owner, Silvio, the signature empanadas from his wife, Estella’s Mexican background - these were all the hallmarks of a downtown cafe, like the Silvio and Stella had left on Queen West. I fervently hoped Weston was ready for this, especially given it was February 2022, the height of the pandemic.
I go into El Al, as I call it, every couple of weeks when I need a change of scenery from my home writing lair. I order an Americano and hammer out a blog on my laptop. As someone who spends a great deal of time with only CBC radio announcers as companions, the conversations of the regulars provide a soothing backdrop. They sit at separate tables engaging in a communal discussion about the weather, mutual acquaintances, hockey, and Weston goings-on. I can almost hear the chorus of “Norm” as a newcomer arrives, just like the gang on TV’s Cheers. Just like Norm and Cliff, I don’t know that this crowd consumes much, although they each sit behind heavy white coffee cups. Better that they’re here, than three doors down at Tim Horton drinking out of future landfill. Unlike Cheers, this bunch exit from time to time to grab a smoke returning to report to the token non-smoker on street events he can’t see through El Al’s generous storefront window.
Today, I’ve come for lunch. I find a table among the half-dozen regulars who are deep in discussion about the $200 cheque we’re each expecting from the province. They’re speculating about whether the $150 from the feds will come to fruition as well. I resist the urge to offer my opinion that these payments are shameless attempts to bribe voters. Or explain my understanding that the federal payment was floated but ultimately dropped as an idea. No-one’s looking to me for an opinion and I enjoy the freedom that comes with anonymity.
Estella is squeezing espressos out of the machine and serving them to the steady flow of customers. There’s a break in the traffic so she calls my surname from behind the bar. I’ve been here enough - and promoted her enough on social media - that she’s remembered the Chandler part. She says it a couple of times before her voice penetrates my deep focus on my writing. I raise my head - “Celia,” I correct with a smile. I’ve already perused the paper menu (no QR, yay!) and decided to branch out from my favourite egg dish - Chorizo Revuelto - and try something new. I go for Sopes de Frijoles, described as three handmade tortillas with frijoles, lettuce, cheese, Pico de Gallo. I add chorizo because, well, who doesn’t like chorizo!
When Estella sets my plate between me and my laptop a few minutes later, one of the regulars notes how good it looks and wishes me a good lunch. Now they’ve heard my name, I guess I’m part of the crowd. Someone else asks if I’m famous. I laugh. Not at all! Just have an Instagram relationship with Stella, I explain. Then the gang starts discussing social media amongst themselves. As I return to my eating and writing, reflect on how much I love the inclusive community vibe this place provides.
I tuck into three discs of corn-goodness topped with all the yummy things promised on the menu; the pico and the chorizo provide the right kick; the lettuce is fresh, and together with the cheese, provides the right balance to the heat.
The double Americano with cream is as authentic as you’d expect, given it’s just come out of the four-foot tall copper espresso maker with the eagle atop. Their signature though, and what makes them unique in Toronto, is their Yerba mate tea. I tried it once, but I suspect it’s an acquired taste. I’m sure it has and will develop a following - they also sell it for home use, along with the distinctive cups and straws for sharing.
If it were weekend, there’d be a brunch crowd but it’s the Friday lunch hour. Despite the flow of coffee-drinkers, unfortunately I’m the only one who’s ordered a meal. Silvio and Estella live in Weston too and they’re determined to make El Almacen the kind of thriving community space that Weston deserves. They are increasing traffic with their coffee and empanada stand at summer the farmers’ market, movie nights, their Nov 2 day of the dead party, and on a Sunday afternoon in January, a singer/guitarist performance.
As I am settling up, I can’t resist taking a couple of empanadas to go. This is really their speciality, unmatched by any others offered in Weston. As Estella and I exchange a few words at the cash, another patron overhears me. “I hope you won’t be self-conscious, but you have a great laugh,” he remarks as I leave. It’s said in a companionable, non-threatening, kind of way, emblematic of the kind of inclusive community I’ve chosen as my home.
Westonians, if you’ve not yet been to to El Almacen Yerba Mate Cafe , check it out. Nothing would make me happier than arriving for an afternoon of writing, only to find there are no free tables.
* Winterlicious debuted in 2003 to promote Toronto’s restaurant industry during the slower winter months. Since then, the event has grown significantly, reportedly serving over 450,000 meals annually. This year, more than 230 places offer three course, fixed price menus at reduced rates. Six of these are within an easy walk of my office on the Danforth.
Zero are available in Weston.
So I’m doing my own Weston Winterlicious. My criteria? walking distance from my house; food cooked onsite; table service; and open for lunch.
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