I’ve never been to Japan but Japanese food has for years been my comfort food. I’m drawn to the variety of subtle flavours and, in a bento, the variety of textures, cooking methods, and contrasts between hot and cold. For someone like me who likes everything, it’s a way to get a mix of it all in one meal.

When Wakame opened on Weston’s Crossroads Plaza more than a decade ago now, my sigh of relief could be heard in midtown where I’d lived previously. At last, Weston was not a Japanese food desert. Jack humoured my need for the occasional takeout delivery of its full range of treats and once in a while, an eat-in experience when we both took the “all you can eat” challenge literally.

When Jack got sick though he had less interest in food and in going out. 2016 was likely the last time I had food from Wakame.

I’ve now been in twice in 2025, mostly because I discovered they serve nabeyaki udon! As much as I enjoy a good bento, my absolute favourite Japanese meal is this melange of dashi broth, chicken, fake crab, Japanese fishcakes, a fried egg, mixed vegetable, atop a pile of udon noodles, and crowned with a tempura shrimp! The Internet tells me it’s a favourite soup in wintertime, but honestly, I could eat the stuff year-round. I worked near a Japanese restaurant at Yonge and Davenport for many years, Aji Sai it was called, and I barely walked through the door before they were doling it out for me. I haven’t got that level of familiarity yet at Wakame, but I’ll get there.

Although my Weston Winterlicious is supposed to be about lunchtime meals, I broke my rule and walked there one frosty evening. When I entered, I was surprised at how many tables were occupied - not full by any means, but fuller than I’d expected, given it’s tucked into the back of a plaza that is slowly emptying out. The other patrons were a pretty mixed bag. A few young couples, sitting together on the same side of their table for easier knee touching, a couple of families, and one other solo diner. And of course, the ubiquitous stream of Uber-eats drivers coming in to fetch food for families too lazy to get off the sofa and too unconcerned about the environment to worry about so much packaging. (I know - judge much?)

I grabbed a booth equidistance from the door (for warmth) and the TV (to avoid the noise) and before the server could point to the QR I said, “I’ll have nabeyaki udon.” She did a double take - what’s with this very white middle-aged woman knowing that? She rolled with it though, nodded and walked away to place the order. The first time I’d been in in early January, I’d gotten caught in the QR trap. It’s one of those deals where not only do you have to look at the menu on your phone, but you have to order the GD meal on the phone! I knew what was next - it was going to ask me to pay for the meal that hadn’t yet arrived and award a tip to someone whose job I was largely doing by placing the order. Nooooo way. I want a human to take my order, give it to the kitchen, and bring me the food. That’s why I’ve come to a restaurant.

She brought me a glass of water with lemon (nice touch) and then it wasn’t long before she returned with my steaming bowl of brothy goodness. Not going to lie - it was not the most attractive bowl being largely monochromatic. I realized I was missing the essential component which adds both heat and a tiny element of red - shichimi. I don’t know how to say that, so I call it Japanese chilli. It arrived, I gave it a liberal shake over my bowl, and kept it at hand - history has taught me that this stuff disappears into the bowl and I have to keep topping it up.

I ate the tempura shrimp first to get the benefit of the one remaining crispy side and then started slurping the broth which for me is the highlight. It’s full of umami, a word that cooking shows have brought into my world. While eating, Wikipedia taught me that dashi is derived of umami rich foods like bonito fish fakes, sea kelp, dried shiitake mushrooms, and dried whole sardines. I might try making it myself one day. But until then, this was great.

Full confession, I’m a one-handed asian soup eater. I know, I know - I’m supposed to have the spoon in the left hand and the chopsticks in the right but I’ve never gotten the hang of it. I exchanged the spoon for the sticks and tried some of the veg - the mix in this one was bok choi, Chinese cabbage, mushrooms, broccoli, and corn kernels. They were nicely cooked, making up for the bits of badly overcooked chicken and the mysterious fish cakes and fake crab that are neither cooked nor uncooked - they just are. As I alternated between spoon and sticks, I reduced the level in the bowl. Although it was presented on top with the shrimp, I left the egg for near the end. I love it when the yolk runs into the broth but I could tell from the outset that this one was going to disappoint. Sure enough - like its chicken progeny (or is the other way around?), it was overcooked. Oh well. I ate it all, including the fat udon noodles made even fatter by soaking up the broth. I wasn’t in Vancouver and nor was I with anyone from Vancouver, so I wasn’t going to be snooty about it. (Ask anyone from the west coast about Japanese food in Toronto and you’ll justifiably get an eyeball roll or two)

I asked for the bill - $19, with tip, $22.50. No food these days is inexpensive but this was a pretty reasonably priced dinner, all things considered. With the bill - a fortune cooking.  “Your curious nature will take you somewhere special.”

As I slipped out into the frigid night, fortified for my 30 minute walk home, I couldn’t help but take a selfie with the fake cherry blossom tree inside their door. Well, tonight that place foretold by the cookie, special or not, was Wakame.

* Winterlicious debuted in 2003 to promote Toronto’s restaurant industry during the slower winter months. Since then, the event has grown significantly, reportedly serving over 450,000 meals annually. This year, more than 230 places offer three course, fixed price menus at reduced rates. Six of these are within an easy walk of my office on the Danforth.

Zero are available in Weston.

So I’m doing my own Weston Winterlicious. My criteria? walking distance from my house; food cooked onsite; table service; and open for lunch.

If you like what you’re reading, there is no greater compliment than to become a subscriber. Sign up below with your email address to receive an email with my weekly blog.